ELSEY NATIONAL PARK, NT

When we reached this place we breathed a collective sigh of relief. 

 It signified the end of our long, long drives and the beginning of Part II of our on-the-road holiday. It also felt like an oasis after having been through the centre. We had resurfaced on the other side. 

Elsey NP is off the main road. It's a spacious place with lots of different places to camp, without feeling like you are packed in like terraces in the city. Facilities are good. The river is beautiful for swimming, fishing, birdwatching and sitting by. We only paused here for an afternoon, one night and the next morning, but we really did like it. 

It was a full, or near-full, moon that evening so we went down to the river to see what we could see. The air was fresh and it was pretty magical. That is, WAS pretty magical before the camels started making their terrible racket, that is. Have YOU heard a camel? At the West Macs we'd heard crazy stories about camels (like when it's dry they've been known to go in to communities and damage taps and air conditioning units) so I was just a little bit disturbed by the thought of our lovely moonlit walk turning into a horror film scene where we are jumping in the river to escape the camel stampede. So, my imagination might run a little wild sometimes*... 

 The last photo is of the only place we stopped in Mataranka - the petrol station. But the town looked like a pretty nice place to stop for a bit if you had more time. We were on a mission to get to Katherine town for supplies and then head on to the gorge (Nitmiluk). 

Hot tips for travellers: 

- Bitter Springs. We didn't get there but apparently this is the nicest, most natural-like spring around Mataranka. 
- Note the above regarding Elsey - it's a nice place. 

 * You might have read my dingo ramblings from our night  at Ormiston Gorge...

KARLU KARLU / Devils Marbles Conservation Reserve

We spent one glorious afternoon at Karlu Karlu before heading inside to make dinner and relax. We didn't expect to be exploring for so long, in one hit, but the afternoon just became more beautiful and we were whisked off into another world once we headed off track from the 'main' area. The bulk of these photos are taken around an area to the north of the campground. Even though it was dusk there was not a single soul that we had to share this area with even though we saw groups of people heading out to the 'main' part to get their sunset photos. So we wandered and played and took photos until the sun went down and the moon came up. 

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Practical stuff for those who are travelling...

We arrived around early afternoon and the campground was quite full. It's basically a long, dusty car park behind the main bulk of Karlu Karlu. There are toilet facilities, a box for camp fees and sometimes there is a ranger talk that you can attend. We were quite happy to park for a night and then head back out onto the road.

WEST MACS HIKE / The Pound Walk

        

To tell you the truth, by Day 3 I was very tempted to forget about this Pound Walk and take it easy. I'd had a terrible nights sleep with being hyper sensitive to any movement and a little bit paranoid about dingoes trying to break into our tent to steal our food. I had heard stories the day before of dingoes getting into people's tents for that very reason. One poor girl had put down her food bag (with 4 days worth of food for her hike) and a dingo had dragged it away before she could do anything about it. So in the middle of the night I heard steps and sniffing (ok maybe I imagined that bit) around our Very Small tent. The vents were open so all that was between my face and a dingo was a nice, flimsy piece of netted fabric. A minute later I hear some eerie howling in the bushes near us. Then a dingo is running in the direction of our camp area. I start whispering an urgent commentary to Gav, who couldn't give a rip, while the dingo stops and changes direction. Part of me really wants to get a good look at the howler, part of me just wants them to leave us alone. After my whispering the howling becomes more faint. I end up falling asleep until the next wake up from two dingoes pounding past our tent. My heart is racing but that's the end of the dingo action and I fall asleep until morning. 

So back to the hike. For some reason I had it in my head that the hike was 12 kms. My compromise when we got up and ready was that if it seemed too far for the time frame we were working with, we could just do the Ghost Gum walk and the waterhole. At the information signs I exclaim to Gav, Ah, it's only 7kms, let's go! We start at the Ghost Gum lookout end so we can catch the first rays of sun before heading down into the gorge (most people do the walk the other way around). Without babbling on, it was well worth it. The walk is so beautiful. First the gorge and then walking out into the sun drenched, grassy pound. I loved it so much. 

/ One of the beautiful Ghost gums
/ Square shaped rock formations in the gorge
/ The sun hitting the top of the gorge
/ Coloured rocks! 
/ Little Gav
/ Butterfly
/// The rest are of the Pound

WEST MACS HIKE / Finke River to Ormiston Gorge

Finke River to Ormiston Gorge is an easy hike over the dry river bed, up and down small hills before a slightly bigger climb up and then heading down towards the gorge. I love the spinifex dotting the land. It gives you a real sense of the dots that are used in many aboriginal paintings. It was also really nice to have Mt Sonder in the background. One day we'll climb you, Mt Sonder. My absolute highlight was spotting a Splendid Fairy Wren. Stunning little birds and one of my all time favourites. 

/ The landscape.
/ Gav and his pack. Mine was not nearly as big! 
/ Dried grasses making beautiful patterns.
/ Lot's of pretty flowers.
/ Ring-necked parrot outside the kiosk at Ormiston Gorge. While at Finke River we were told that there was a kiosk that served Real Coffee and Hot Food. We had no idea Ormiston Gorge was so established. Turned out the kiosk had only opened that week and a lovely couple from Melbourne had taken on the task. 
/ Camp all to ourselves. Me and my funny-faced darling. 

WEST MACS HIKE / Glen Helen Resort to Finke River

    

During our week in Alice Springs we took a few days to head out of town and see some of the West Macdonnell Ranges. It's a stunning drive and even more striking once you get out there on your feet. 

It had been a while since we've hiked so, with that and having an extra passenger on board, we decided to take it pretty easy. The first day we left our car at Glen Helen resort in the early afternoon and headed off to Finke River (only 4 km away!). 

> Melon vines . Not for human consumption.
> The view out to the ranges, with the path ahead and the Finke River in sight.
> The rocky wall where the above photo was taken from, it was our shady snack stop. 
> Paradise in the dry river bed. After setting up camp we came back here with books and snacks and lazed about.
> Our baby tent enjoying an airing.
> Sunset.
> Not sure if this one is sunset or sunrise.
> Beanie weather!!

Our Alice Springs detour

Here is where you'll find the reason why we decided to detour via Alice Springs on our way to Broome. Apart from being able to say that we zig-zagged across the country, there are some clever and lovely people that we wanted to spend time with. For those without the background, Gav was sleeping on Ben and Sarah's couch when we started 'going out' (snigger snigger). For our whole life together as a couple, these two have been around. That is, until last year, when they packed up, put me out of a job* and left the state for some grand adventures in the centre. Although we've missed having these guys as a part of our everyday life and extended family, we knew that we wouldn't be too far behind in the packing up and leaving department, so we can appreciate they journey they've been on. Plus, we ended up living in their Brisbane home for the remainder of our time in Brisbane, that was pretty handy.

So, good times in Alice Springs involved witnessing the transformation from city folk (let's ride our bikes along the Brisbane river, eat mexican, go to GOMA) to desert folk (let's pack a camp dinner and go to a dry river bed and make a bonfire, climb rocks and watch the sun go down). I love this transformation. It's so wonderful to be out of the city with friends, to see their kids really get into the surrounds too: walking to gorges, climbing the red rocks and pretending to be rock wallabies.

Here's some (slightly dodgy) photos of what we got up to:

Collecting sticks for the camp fire:

"Let's go rock climbing!" - Mabel. And she really meant it:

       

Sunset and Ben's careful attendance to the fire:

       

A visit to local establishment, Monte's. Very kid (and kindy ted) friendly:

Bike rides along the Todd river (yes, it's dry):

A photo of a photo of a photo...
Our day at Alice Springs Desert Park with the Mabel and Norah:

A visit to Simpson's Gap and proof of Mabel's fantastic sense of humour:

 

The girls found a rock couch: 

    

Thanks for the good times friends!